arts and humanitiescultural heritageil bel paese
By Bridget Perry — Andiamo Italy
The city of Napoli is a sprawling, crowded, and colorful ecosystem of overlapping lives. From the treelined shopping streets of Vomero to the port views of Chiaia and the tightly packed alleys of Centro Storico, the city unveils a new world and a new view with each twist and turn. And one of these turns, no matter the time of year you visit, leads to Christmas Alley.
Known locally as Via San Gregorio Armano, this small and sloping road is tucked into the heart of the city near Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta and is the longstanding hub for local artisans and vendors of “i presepi” (nativity scenes). For many Italians, the Christmas season is not complete without a nativity on display, thus making Christmas Alley an essential destination for securing the figurines and fine details needed for a show stopping spectacle. Here you’ll find storefronts and workshops open year round with artists stooped over workbenches adding delicate details to Mary’s robes or the finishing touches on the wooden manger.
Over time, the intricacy of i presepi has only grown, with displays becoming larger, more ornate, and broader in theme. This expansion of the artform from small homely displays to gigantic constructions has also invited room for more creative license – a shift which many artists of San Gregorio have embraced with pride. Why stop at the manger when you can build Bethlehem? Why stop at the Three Wise Men when you can add Maradona, Barack Obama, or Superman to the birth of Christ? Walk the path of Christmas Alley today and you’ll find everything you need to start your own modern nativity from traditional Biblical archetypes to new and novel characters.
A longstanding historical figure and worthwhile stopping point on Via San Gregorio is Fratelli Capuano, a family owned business which has been building and crafting presepi in Naples for four generations (est 1840) and has the displays to prove it. Large ornate structures depicting lively scenes fill their courtyard, and close inspection reveals works complete with animated figures, glowing candles, and expertly cobbled streets. For €1, journey into their underground cellar and admire one of their largest presepi, or linger quietly at the doors of their workshop and witness the craftsmanship of their works in progress.
Whether shopping for a nativity display or seeking out a unique and handmade memento for your time in Naples, Christmas Alley is a sight worth seeing especially during the holiday season. Just be sure to watch your step; this street is packed full with miniatures, breakables, and a multitude of carefully crafted Christs and “you break it you buy it” is a well embraced practice!
